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How to Make Cutouts 



How to Make Cutouts 

A HANDBOOK OF 

practical methods of cutting and creasing for 

advertising novelties, paper boxes, etc., 

on platen, cylinder and 

rotary presses 

• r 

ROBERT KSALADE 




New \ ork 

Oswald Publishing Company 

1919 






Copyright, 1919, by the 
Oswald Publishing Company 



APR 10 1919 



Contents 



PAGE 



Material necessary for making steel dies . . 3 

Kinds of furniture used in make-up .... 4 

The work-table 10 

Equipment necessary for a first-class cutting 

and creasing department 12 

Making the model, or "dummy" 14 

Building a cutting and creasing die .... 15 

Making an odd-shaped cutting die .... 18 

Making a straight-line cutting die .... 22 

Making ready a cutting and creasing form . . 24 

Corking the die-form 30 

Making ready a steel cutting die 32 

Making ready steel-die forms on regular platen 

presses 33 

Making ready steel-die forms on cylinder presses 34 
Printing, cutting and creasing on special rotary 

presses 35 

Embossing, cutting and creasing on standard 

platen presses 35 

Feeding 37 

Stripping 38 

Additional Suggestions 38 



\: 



How to Make Cutouts 

/^NE of the special branches of the printing indus- 
^^ try which have developed to great proportions 
during the last few decades is that devoted to cutting 
and creasing of cardboard and paper stocks. This does 
not refer to the paper box making section of the trade 
exclusively. There are many other demands for cut- 
ting and creasing work on presses, such as for ex- 
ample, the cutting out of various shapes for adver- 
tising purposes ; the cutting out of leather novelties ; 
the cutting and creasing of wall pockets (out of card- 
board) ; fancy calendars ; fans ; labels ; coin-cards ; 
jewelers' display cards for holding cuff links, chains, 
etc, ; cut-out mats for holding photographs ; cut-out 
toys in cardboard ; odd-shaped toy books ; large col- 
ored pictures such as are used extensively for adver- 
tising displays in stores ; and many other cardboard 
and paper things of this class. 

There is really no limit to the field of cutting and 
creasing in the various lines mentioned. The paper 
box industry is a big world of activity by itself. An- 
other great field is that of advertising novelties. Still 
another special branch of cutting and creasing is 



2 Introductory 

formed by manufacturers of photographic mount- 
ings. The remarkable fact is that any practical typo- 
graphical printer is capable of doing any of the cut- 
ting and creasing work essential for the purposes 
stated in the foregoing. He can do a lot of this work, 
right in his plant, without having special machinery 
installed. 

While it is possible for the printer to do all kinds 
of cutting and creasing on ordinary printing presses 
of the Colt's Armory and Hartford type, yet if it is 
his intention to go in for cutting and creasing exten- 
sively, it is advisable for him to have regular cutting 
and creasing presses put in. To produce this class of 
work under the best mechanical conditions, it would 
be well for the printer also to have installed a special 
steel-rule-bending machine, a special steel-rule-cutting 
device, and a jig saw. With these machines, along 
with special furniture racks, and a large work table, 
the printer, or any other skilled craftsman, would 
have a complete cutting and creasing plant. 

This book was written and printed for the purpose 
of offering practical information about the work of 
cutting and creasing. The writer will attempt to ex- 
plain how the steel dies are made of the steel cutting 
rule ; how the creasing rules are made up ; how forms 
are made up ; how dies for cutting and creasing are 



Material that is necessary 3 

made ready on the presses ; how steel dies for cutting 
advertising novelties are constructed ; how such forms 
are made ready on the presses ; and so forth. It is 
the writer's desire to give plain, simple facts, and it is 
to be hoped that even the novice, or the apprentice, 
will be able to follow these facts intelligently. 

MATERIAL NECESSARY FOR MAKING STEEL DIES 

When making up a form for cutting and creasing 
folding boxes, two kinds of steel rule are used — hard 
steel cutting rule, and hard steel creasing rule. In 
cases where there is to be rule bending done, as for 
interlapping corners of folding boxes, soft steel cut- 
ting rule is used for the bending. 

All of the three kinds of steel rule can be bought 
from the printers' supply dealers, from the type- 
founders, or from the manufacturers of the steel rule. 
The rule comes in strips, from twenty-four inches to 
thirty inches long. In height the rule is .923 of an 
inch, which is slightly higher than printers' brass 
rule, which is .918 of an inch in height. The creasing 
rule is about the height of ordinary brass rule, and 
it is blunt on both edges. All of this steel rule is sold 
by the foot. It should be bought in full strips, to be 
cut to desired sizes as needed. 

Many box-makers use worn steel cutting rule as 



4 Steel, wood and lead furniture 

creasing rule by turning it upside down in the forms. 
It would be well, however, to have a supply of regular 
creasing rule on hand. All of the steel rule is made 
in two-point width, the width or thickness of printers' 
two-point leads. There is no reason for having the 
rule made thinner or thicker than two points. 

When making a steel-cutting die for round, or odd- 
shaped advertising novelties, fans, cardboard toys, 
etc., the soft steel cutting rule is used, as it will bend 
to various forms easily. The hard steel rule would 
break in the bending. The hard steel rule is used when 
making straight-line dies for cutting advertising 
specialties, such as squares, oblongs, diamonds, key- 
stones, and the like, as no round bending of the rule 
will be necessary for this class of die-work. 

KINDS OF FURNITURE USED IN MAKE-UP 

Steel, wood, lead and iron furniture are used when 
making up steel rule cutting dies for forms of paper 
boxes, straight-line forms for the cutting out of nov- 
elties, etc. 

First, there is the steel sectional furniture, notched 
at the ends, such as can be found in practically every 
large composing-room. This steel furniture can be 
bought in regular fonts from the printers' supply 
houses, or from the typefounders. It can be had in 



The utility of steel 5 

twenty-four-point, with twelve-point notch ; thirty- 
six-point with eighteen-point notch ; forty-eight-point 
with three twelve-point notches ; fifty-four-point with 
two eighteen-point notches. It is furnished in a full 
range of lengths, all the way up to twenty-four inches 
in length. Almost any size oblong or square can be 
built with four selected pieces of the steel furniture. 
It is of great utility for blanking out large forms of 
steel-cutting and creasing rules. It can be assembled 
very rapidly, and a big form is made light in weight 
through its use. Another important feature about it 
is that it is absolutely accurate. This can not be said 
of ordinary wood furniture. 

Second, improved metal (lead) furniture is also 
used in the make-up of dies for folding box work. 
This is the regular metal furniture which all printers 
use in connection with type forms, etc. It can be 
purchased in fonts from the typefounders or any of 
the printers' supply houses. It comes in a wide variety 
of sizes. The improved metal furniture is used to fill 
in the smaller blank spaces of a die form. In the cases 
of intricate forms where a number of the smaller steel 
dies are made up in "gangs," the metal furniture is 
used entirely for blanking out space. 

Third, enlarged iron furniture, and regular iron 
furniture, are used to some extent in the building of 



6 Iron is economical 

steel-cutting rule forms. The enlarged iron furniture 
is lighter in weight than ordinary lead furniture. It 
comes in many sizes, but the larger sizes, such as for 
example, twenty-five-by-one hundred ems (pica), are 
most .pojjular for blanking out big die forms. There 
are two round holes in each piece of enlarged iron fur- 
niture, and the die-maker can handle the sections 
easily by placing his fingers in the round holes. This 
iron furniture can be bought in fonts from the manu- 
facturers, or from the printers' supply dealers. It is 
less expensive than the patented steel furniture. 

The ordinary iron furniture is made in smaller 
pieces. It can be bought in assorted fonts to suit the 
requirements of the plant. It is strong, accurate and 
economical, and it will stand hard wear for many 
years. 

There is also what is known as mammoth iron fur- 
niture, made in sizes all the way up to sixty-by-one 
hundred and twenty ems (pica). Large round holes 
are in each piece of the mammoth iron furniture, 
which make it light in weight and easy to handle. It 
can be bought in fonts of various combinations. It is 
not very costly. 

Cabinets for holding the labor-saving steel, lead, 
enlarged iron, regular iron, and mammoth iron fur- 
niture, can be had from the manufacturers, or from 



Cabinets for furniture 7 

the typefounders. It would be well for every box- 
maker ordering any of the various kinds of metal fur- 
niture mentioned, to order cabinets for it. The cabi- 
nets are so constructed that the furniture can be 
stored systematically. Thus, the die-maker can see 
at a glance what pieces are in the cabinets to work 
with. Time is gained, as the die-maker doesn't find it 
necessary to "sort out" the sections needed as he is 
building. Every piece is plainly marked as to size, 
and the places where the different lengths of furniture 
are kept are also marked on the cabinets. The paper- 
box manufacturer who desires to get the maximum of 
production in his die-making department should have 
a generous supply of metal furniture, and there should 
always be plenty of it in the cases or cabinets. The 
die-maker will soon lose several hours' time if he is 
forced to search for furniture for every form. He 
should have an abundance of material to work with, 
and everything should be kept systematically. 

Fourth, wood furniture is used in practically all 
box manufacturing factories for the making up of 
large, open die-forms. That is, forms which contain 
only a few steel rules and plenty of blank space. The 
kind of wood known as black cherry is best for the 
purpose, on account of the resistance it offers to 
atmospheric changes. Soft, porous wood furniture 



8 Black cherry is useful 

would take moisture in damp weather, and would 
swell and expand, affecting the positions of the rules 
to some extent. That would in many cases ruin the 
register of the dies, and would cause the cutting and 
creasing rules to move out of true position, thus dam- 
aging the counter-die. 

Black cherry is therefore the best wood to use for 
blanking out certain kinds of steel-die forms, although 
other hard woods may be used with fair results. 

Many of the larger box-makers buy the black 
cherry in the shape of long boards, direct from the 
lumber dealer. 

Some of the smaller box-makers purchase the black 
cherry wood in long strips from mills in the neighbor- 
hood. 

The wood is cut to sizes desired on a circular saw 
by the die-maker as he builds up the die. The standard 
thickness which the black cherry board should be for 
die-work is about eleven-sixteenths of an inch. This 
is just high enough for the wood to keep the rules 
standing firmly, and it allows for effective corking in 
the make-ready. 

One of the advantages of the wood furniture is that 
it is inexpensive, and large die-forms containing the 
wood can be kept standing without tying up the more 
expensive steel, lead, or iron furniture. It should be 



Boards for intricate dies 9 

understood, however, that some metal furniture, in 
the smaller sizes, is used in combination with the wood 
furniture when building a steel cutting and creasing 
die-form. The metal furniture is generally used for 
filling in the outer corners of box-dies, also for filling 
in little places where the wood has not reached. The 
plan is to cut large square or oblong blocks of the 
black cherry ; place these in the main openings of the 
steel die ; then to complete the blanking-out with small 
pieces of lead or iron furniture. 

Some box-makers use regular printers' wood labor- 
saving furniture for blanking-out certain portions of 
steel-die forms, but this kind of material is not so well 
adapted to the work as the cherry wood, as the ordi- 
nary printers' wood furniture is not as high as eleven- 
sixteenths of an inch. Tlie lower material is all right 
for lock-up furniture to be used around the inside of 
the chase. 

Fifth, for intricate, odd-shaped steel-cutting dies, 
circles, ovals, dies for cutting toy soldiers of card- 
board, flowers, etc., large boards are used for holding 
the steel-cutting rule. The places which are to hold 
the rules are cut out of the board with a jig saw. 
Laminated board, five-ply, eleven-sixteenth of an inch 
in thickness, is preferable to all other wood for work 
of this character. It may not always be easy for one to 



10 A work-table essential 

obtain the laminated boards, in which case the black 
cherry boards, or other hard wood, will serve. 

THE WORK-TABLE 

One of the most essential things which the die- 
maker must have is a first-class work-table. There 
is nothing better for this class of work than a regular 
printers' imposing stone, although the die-maker 
could build a table especially for the purpose with 
little difficulty. One box manufacturer has several of 
the new style steel imposing tables in his plant on 
which the die-makers construct and lock up the steel- 
die forms. These tables are of steel throughout. The 
imposing surface is of the best steel, smoothly planed. 
The tables contain drawers in which are stored lock- 
ing-up quoins, locking keys, the steel cutting and 
creasing rules in full-length strips, mallets, and other 
tools. Underneath the imposing-tables are cabinets 
stocked with steel, lead, iron and wood furniture. 

Not far from the imposing-tables are a power jig 
saw, power circular saw, and a large work-bench 
equipped with a special steel-rule cutter, special steel 
rule bending machine, vise, and all kinds of pliers and 
other tools which the die-maker finds useful in his 
craft. So efficient is this arrangement of a die-making 
department that the die-maker can accomplish a 



Arrangement of table 11 

great deal of work without it being necessary for him 
to waste many steps going after material, tools, etc. 
Everything necessary to work with is within arm's 
reach, so to speak. 

Another box manufacturing concern has the work- 
room arranged on the same plan as the one just de- 
scribed, with the exception that the imposing-tables 
are of hardwood with stone tops, instead of being 
steel construction. An imposing stone such as many 
printers use is cut from hard marble, and it will do 
very well for the purposes of the die-maker. The steel 
surface will last longer, of course. 

Some of the smaller box-makers have had their own 
work-tables built of ordinary lumber witli tops of 
hardwood, or of stone. These work-tables are large 
and they contain spacious drawers in which ai'e 
stored the long strips of steel-cutting and creasing 
rules, pliers, mallets, and other tools. On a smaller 
work-bench, close to the imposing-table, is kept the 
vise, rule-cutter, and the rule-bending machine. Fur- 
niture cabinets are set up over the imposing-table, so 
that the die-maker can easily reach for the furniture 
as he is building a steel-die form. 

An imposing-table with a hardwood surface will 
last for a long time with care. It is a good plan, how- 
ever, to have the surface covered with a sheet of metal 



12 How table is built 

such as zinc, or heavy tin, for instance. A stone top, 
or a steel top, would be better. 

The handy craftsman could build an imposing- 
table, and a work-bench, to suit the requirements of 
the plant, from any kind of smoothh^-planed lumber. 
The legs can be made of 3x4 (inches) white pine, or of 
other wood which can be sawed easily. It is advisable 
to construct the table and work-bench in a craftsman- 
like manner. If the die-maker is not clever at work 
of this character, it would be better to call in a car- 
penter. Standard imposing-tables, and work-benches, 
of wood and stone, or of all-steel, can be bought from 
the printers' supply dealers. 

EQUIPMENT KECESSARY FOR A FIRST-CLASS CUTTING 
AND CREASING DEPARTMENT 

While it is the writer's intention to explain how 
cutting and creasing can be done on ordinary platen 
and cylinder presses, Avith the aid of commonplace 
tools, yet it should be understood that if a person is 
to start in the cutting and creasing business the right 
way, special tools and machinery will certainly give 
better results than makeshifts. But, it may be that 
some readers would prefer to start the work of cut- 
ting and creasing with ordinary tools and machinery 
which are already in their possession, with the idea 



Equipment that is needed 13 

of adding the special equipment later on as the field 
developed. It would seem worth while, then, to offer 
a few facts, further ahead in these articles, covering 
cutting and creasing with ordinary tools and ma- 
chinery. Under certain conditions, it is possible to 
produce excellent work on regular platen and cylin- 
der presses. 

The special equipment essential for the operation 
of a modern cutting and creasing department would 
be as follows : 

Large size cutting and creasing press with individual motor. 
Smaller size cutting and creasing press with individual motor. 
Jig-saw with motor. 
Circular-saw with motor. 
Steel rule-cutting machine. 
Steel rule-bending machine. 
Imposing-table, medium size. 
Work-table. 

Steel, lead, iron, and wood furniture, the metal furniture in a 
full range of sizes. 

Cabinets for holding metal furniture. 

Tools such as pliers, files, hammer, mallet, vise, etc. 

Steel cutting rule in full-length strips. 

Steel creasing rule in full-length strips. 

Corks in assorted sizes; rubber in cubes; LePage glue. 

With this equipment, the manufacturer would be 
in a position to produce practically any class of fold- 
ing-box work, also any kind of cutting for advertising 



14 Making the model 

novelties, cardboard toys, photograph mounts, and 
so forth. He could make up steel-die forms of every 
variety, and he could construct the dies rapidly, as 
he would have all of the tools and material essential 
for the production of steel-cutting and creasing dies. 
His presses would be capable of handling almost any 
job of cutting and creasing which would come to the 
average establishment. 

MAKING THE MODEL OR "dUMMY" 

The size and style of a folding box are ascertained 
by first having a model or "dummy" made of card- 
board, or box-board. The model is formed with the 
aid of pencil, ruler, and a pocket-knife. After it has 
been cut out with the pocket-knife, the dummy is 
folded up to see that everything is all right before 
building the die. There are so many different kinds 
of folding boxes on the market that it is impossible to 
give descriptions of all. For example, there are flat 
paper boxes made especially for holding things such 
as neckwear, suspenders, garters and handkerchiefs. 
Then, there are folding boxes for cereals and other 
foods in wide variety. Paper boxes of every size and 
shape are used for holding medicinal supplies, per- 
fumery bottles, toilet requisites, etc. Tliere is actually 
no end to the line of work in the box industry. 



Building cutting dies 15 

The enterprising box-maker can "create" orders 
for his plant by scheming out new ideas in folding 
boxes and novelties. It is an easy matter to have dum- 
mies made up, as new lines of goods appear on the 
market, and the models are often the means of secur- 
ing substantial orders. When the box manufacturer 
desires to make a die for some box or novelty which 
is already in general circulation, he simply takes one 
of the cardboard articles in question, opens it out 
flat, and he then has a model from which his die-form 
can be made. The sizes of the various pieces of cut- 
ting or creasing rule are marked down on the dummy 
so that when the die-maker is building his form he will 
have specific measurements to follow. 

BUILDING A CUTTING AND CREASING DIE 

In the majority of cases, the die-maker first takes 
his dummy and studies it to find how many pieces 
of steel cutting rule will be needed, also the number of 
pieces of creasing rule. He jots down the figures — 
the number of pieces required, and the various sizes — 
on a pad of paper. He then cuts all of the steel rule 
which is to be used in the form on the steel-rule cutting 
machine. Hard steel cutting-rule is used for dies of 
this character. It is possible to use an ordinary lead 
and rule-cutter for hard steel rule, provided that the 



16 Assembling the rules 

machine be kept sharpened with the cutting parts set 
very tight. But, there are many advantages derived 
through having a special steel-rule cutting machine 
for this work. 

After all of the rules have been cut to the necessary 
sizes, the die-maker starts to assemble them in the 
form. A chase is placed on the imposing-table ; ordi- 
nary wood furniture is placed in the chase, in such an 
arrangement that there will remain the exact space 
to be occupied by the die ; then, as the pieces of rule 
are put in, the die-maker blanks out with furniture. 
Sections of black cherry board are placed in the larger 
openings. When the openings are very spacious, 
squares and oblongs are made for them of the steel 
sectional furniture. Smaller spaces are filled in with 
pieces of the lead furniture or iron furniture. 

In many instances, a large, plain cutting and creas- 
ing die can be blanked out almost entirely with blocks 
of black cherry wood. The corners of the die are filled 
in, however, with small sections of metal furniture. 
The die-builder cuts the pieces of wood furniture toi 
sizes required, on the circular saw as he makes up the 
form. Or, it may be that there are cut pieces of the 
wood in stock which can be utilized. Whenever feasi- 
ble, wood or open lead furniture is placed next to the 
cutting rules, on each side of them, on account of it 



Interlocking dies 17 

being easier to attach corks to the wood, or open lead 
furniture, than to the steel sectional furniture. 

Often as many as half-a-dozen complete cutting 
and creasing dies are made up together in a single 
form. This is what box-makers term "gangs of die- 
forms." Frequently complete forms for cutting and 
creasing a paper box and its lid are run together in 



r 



\ 



■'r^C 



□ 



How dies interlock to save space and stock. Dotted lines 
indicate creasing rules ; plain lines represent cutting rules 



the same chase. Through this plan valuable time is 
gained, and there is a certain saving in stock. The 
die-builder studies to have all of the dies laid out in 
the chase to the best advantage so that there will be 
little wastage of stock in the cutting. Wlien forms 



18 Corners not mitered 

are run in "gangs," the dies are set close to each other 
so that when the finished sheets are cut apart there 
will be no trimming necessary. 

It is not essential to miter the corner of steel cut- 
ting rules in a cutting and creasing form. The little 
opening caused by the rules not setting close together 
is of advantage. This little space allows for the cor- 
ners of the stock holding to the full sheet of box- 
board during the cutting and creasing operation. The 
corner pieces of the finished sheets are pulled apart, 
or knocked out, after the sheets have been removed 
from the press. 

The width of the average crease in a folding box 
die form is two points. A single piece of scoring rule 
makes a crease of this size. On heavy stock where it 
is desirable to have the creasing lines wider than two 
points, several strips of the creasing rule are placed 
close together. Two pieces press a scoring line of 
four points ; three pieces of the rule make a crease of 
six points, and so on. Worn sections of cutting rule, 
flattened with a file, may be used as creasing rule by 
turning it upside down in the form. 

MAKING AN ODD-SHAPED CUTTING DIE 

Steel rule cutting dies are constructed in a differ- 
ent manner than are cutting and creasing dies for 



Odd-shaped dies 19 

folding boxes. Careful rule bending is essential for 
dies used for cutting out advertising novelties, card- 
board toys, fans, fancy calendars, wall pockets, 
leather specialties, jewelers' display cards, etc. 




Odd - shaped dies made from soft steel, set in laminated board 

First, a laminated board, five-ply, eleven-sixteenths 
of an inch in thickness, and of a size that will take 
the die in question, is secured. Or, if the laminated 
board is not obtainable, some other wood, eleven- 
sixteenths of an inch thick, will do. 

Second, patterns of the article or articles are cut 
out of cardboard with a sharp knife or scissors. If 
the subject or subjects have been printed or litho- 
graphed, the patterns are cut out of one of the sheets. 



20 Cutting the patterns 

When the stock to be cut is blank, the pattern is made 
by drawing a diagram of the subject with pen or pen- 
cil on cardboard. The cutting of the pattern should 
be done very accurately, as the steel die is to be ex- 
actly the shape of the pattern. 

Third, the pattern or patterns are laid in proper 
positions on the board, and a few tacks are inserted 
to hold them firmly. Then, with a heavy black pencil 
the outlines of the patterns are drawn distinctly on 
the block. The pencil simply follows the shape of the 
cardboard pattern. In the case where half-a-dozen 
dies are to be inserted in the same block — say for cut- 
ting out toy soldiers, for instance, which have been 
lithographed on a sheet — it is necessary first to cut 
out with knife or scissors the entire six patterns. The 
remaining portion of the lithographed sheet is then 
laid over the block so as to obtain exact position for 
the six dies. Otherwise, it would be hard to get the 
dies into register with the lithographed matter. 

Fourth, the board is laid on the table of a power 
jig-saw, and all of the figures marked are carefully 
cut out with the saw. Care must be taken to have all 
of the places cut out by the saw vertically even. The 
pieces of wood which are sawed out of the board are 
saved intact. The}^ are to serve as "plugs" for hold- 
ing in the steel rule, and they are also to be used as 



Soft cutting rule 21 

formers when bending the steel cutting rule. The saw 
removes just enough of the wood to allow for the in- 
serting of the rule. 

Fifth, the steel cutting rule is now bent to conform 
to the lines cut out in the block. When there is very 
intricate bending to be done, some die-makers heat 
the steel rule so that it can be bent easily, but it 
is not necessary to heat the rule in all cases. Use soft 
steel cutting rule for this class of die-work. The hard 
steel rule is used for straight-line dies where there is 
to be no bending of the rules. An ordinary vise can be 
used as an aid in the rule bending, although a special 
rule-bending machine is preferable. Pliers, of various 
sizes, are also very helpful in the rule bending. 

The sawed-out pieces of wood are used as "form- 
ers." The steel rule is gradually bent to a form which 
will fit around the wood patterns accurately. All of 
the curves should be made with extreme care. Each 
bend must be straight vertically, else the face of the 
die will not be even. Care must also be taken so that 
the face of the rule will not be damaged during the 
bending. This kind of work must be done slowly and 
gradually. A perfect die means perfect cutting all 
through the run. An imperfect die will cause trouble 
in the presswork. The apprentice die-builder will have 
but little difficulty with the work if he follows these 



22 Inserting in block 

instructions minutely. Heat the rule for all intricate 
curves, and wrap a cloth around the end while bending 
to avoid burning the hand holding it. Make every turn 
slowly but surely. Strive to do excellent work. 

Some die-makers use full lengths of the soft steel 
cutting rule when shaping fancy or odd forms. Others 
use smaller sections of the soft rule, placing the pieces 
together as the work of bending progresses. Both 
methods are correct. It is easier to work with the 
small sections than with a long strip. It is not neces- 
sary to join the pieces of rule extra close, as the little 
openings make it possible for the cardboard sheets to 
hold together during the cutting operation on press. 
Three or four of these openings, or breaks, in the rule 
wiU do for the average die. 

Sixth, after the rule has been bent to the shape 
desired, it is inserted in the block, using the cut-out 
pieces of wood to plug the rule in with. Sometimes it 
is essential to hammer in the plugs with the aid of a 
mallet, taking care to prevent splitting. 

Seventh, the block is then locked up in a chase, with 
regular quoins, at the top and on the right-hand side. 

MAKING A STRAIGHT-LINE CUTTING DIE 

Hard steel cutting rule is used for all straight-line 
dies ; that is, forms such as plain squares, oblongs. 



Saving the block 23 

diamonds, triangles, keystones, crosses, etc. The die 
can be blanked out with lead, steel, iron, or wood fur- 
niture, the same as with a cutting and creasing die for 
a folding box,or one large block of wood may be used, 
as in the case of an odd-shaped cutting die. 

When a large board is used, the subjects are pen- 
ciled and sawed out of the block on the jig saw. It is 
not necessary to miter the corners of steel rules for 
straight-line dies, although some die-makers do miter 
all rules where they join at corners. It is a good idea 
to leave at least two of the corners open so that the 
stock will hold together while cutting out on the press. 

One reason why it is advantageous to saw a large 
block for holding dies of this class is that the entire 
die can be saved intact, and kept standing for a re- 
peat order, without tying up any metal furniture. If 
there is a likelihood of the order coming in again, it 
would be well to have a block sawed for the die. The 
whole thing can be stored aAvay for a long time with- 
out danger of the form breaking apart. 

Laminated board is best for holding all varieties 
of steel rule cutting dies, as the laminated board will 
not warp or crack. Ordinary lumber will do for plain 
cutting dies which are to have only one run on the 
press. Or, blank out with metal. 

When building ordinary square or oblong cutting 



.y 



24 Making a form ready 

dies, there is no need of having a block sawed for the 
purpose, as it is an easy matter to blank out with 
metal or wood furniture. A die of this shape is sel- 
dom kept standing, as it is easy to rebuild. 

Straight-line dies are locked up in a chase in the 
same manner as any of the other dies mentioned. 

MAKING READY A CUTTING AND CREASING FORM 

As already stated, a regular cutting and creasing 
press will give the best results on work of this char- 
acter. Standard platen printing presses, such as the 
Hartford, or Colt's Armory, may be used success- 
fully for the work, provided, however, that such 
machines have steel or brass platen plates, about one- 
eighth of an inch in thickness. These plates are at- 
tached to the platen by means of screws. It is also 
possible to do cutting and creasing on cylinder 
presses when the machines are equipped with steel 
blankets about one-eighth of an inch thick. We will 
first explain how the make-ready of a die for a fold- 
ing paper box is to be done on a standard cutting and 
creasing press : 

Place the form on press, then see that the steel 
platen plate is in perfectly flat position with no make- 
ready of any kind underneath. 

Lower the impression before starting with the 



Specimens 



25 




Two specimen forms of cutting and creasmg work 



26 Straw-board on platen 

make-ready through loosening the nuts and slides 
which hold the throw-off bar, and through moving the 
slides down several notches. It is better to start make- 
ready with a light impression. Now take a sheet of 
the stock which is to be cut and creased. Pull an im- 
pression of the die on it. If the sharp rules do not cut 
entirely through the stock, move up the slides a notch 
or two, and pull another impression on a sheet of the 
box-board. 

When the slides have been properly adjusted so 
that the cutting rules cut through the stock sharp 
and clean, tighten the slide-nuts, and proceed with 
the make-ready as follows : 

First, a sheet of straw-board, chip-board, or box- 
board is glued to the steel platen plate. LePage glue 
is best for this purpose, but any good fish-glue will do. 
The sheet should be large enough to take in the en- 
tire cutting and creasing die. Cover one side of the 
board with an even film of the glue. After the board 
has been pasted to the steel platen plate, rub over it 
briskly with a soft cloth and with the palm of the 
hand so that the board will adhere to the plate firmly 
and smoothly. 

Second, take a small piece of a printer's inking 
roller, or a small paint brush, and with the aid of it 
ink the surface of all creasing rules in the form. 



Cutting out scoring rules 27 

Regular printing ink will do. Care should be taken 
to have only the surface of the creasing rules 
"painted." Now pull an impression of the inked form 
on the sheet which has been glued to the platen plate. 

Third, all of the places marked by the inked creas- 
ing rules are now cut out of the foundation board with 
a sharp knife. This cutting should be performed very 
accurately. The "channels" should be cut a little 
wider, however, than the surface size of the creasing 
rules involved. When the scoring rule is of two-point 
face, cut out a three or four-point "channel." If the 
rule is four-point face, cut out about six points, and 
so on. These crevices are to form a reverse die for 
the creasing rules. The stock is to be pressed into 
these channels on each impression, "intaglio," thus 
making clean, deep scoring which will not break the 
stock. The crevices are made slightly larger so that 
the stock will press into the channels comfortably. 
Remove all shreds of the cut-out cardboard so that 
the "female die" will be clear of all obstructions. Do 
not cut out any of the places where the steel cutting 
rule has jnarked. 

Fourth, after the counter-die is completed, the 
feeding guides are attached. The guides may be of 
wood, lead or brass. Many pressmen use printers' 
brass rule, or slugs, twelve-point, about two inches in 



28 Spotting up 

length. They are glued, on the flat side, of course, to 
the counter-die. If the counter-die does not extend 
far enough to take the guides, additional pieces of 
cardboard are glued to the platen plate for the 
guides. The guides should never be glued directly to 
the platen, as they would not hold firmly. 

Fenders are made of thin brass rule, tin, or from 
small pieces of the steel cutting rule. One end of the 
fender is bent upward. The fenders are glued along- 
side of the feed guides, and they prevent the stock 
from pushing over the guides during the feeding 
operation. Use LePage glue for attaching both the 
guides and the fenders. 

Fifth, when the guides are in proper position, pull 
an impression on a sheet of the stock which is to be 
cut and creased. It may be that some of the cutting 
rules require additional impression to make them cut 
sharply. "Spotting up" can be done on a sheet of 
white or manila paper, which should be about the size 
of the counter-die. Lay the cut-out sheet of box- 
board over this sheet, and with pencil mark the weak 
spots of rules on the paper. Make rough circles with 
the pencil, indicating the weak places in the cutting 
rule. "Spot up" these circles with pieces of paper 
(about forty-pound stock). Loosen the steel platen 
plate, and place the make-ready sheet under it in as 



A cutting press 29 

true position as possible. Put the platen plate back 
in position before taking another impression. 

Other "patching up" can be done under the platen 
plate in the same way as described. After a cutting 
and creasing press has been in hard service for sev- 




A cutting and creasing press 

eral years the center of the platen is apt to become 
slightly hollow. This defect can be overcome by past- 
ing several ovals of forty-pound paper on the hollow 
place, under the steel platen plate. One oval should 
be small, another larger, and the other still larger. 
Three or four of the ovals are usually sufficient to 
make the surface of the platen fairly even. 



30 Corking the form 

Some make-ready may be done in back of the form. 
Small pieces of heavy manila paper are pasted on 
back of rules which seem lower in height than others 
in the form. It is advisable, though, to have most of 
the "spotting up" done on a sheet placed under the 
platen plate. Some box-pressmen take an impression 
of a cutting and creasing die on a sheet of manila, 
and "mark it out," and "spot it up" after the manner 
of cylinder pressmen making ready a form of type. 
The sheet of manila is then placed in proper position 
under the platen plate. Such careful make-ready is 
not essential on ordinary cutting and creasing forms. 
A few small pieces of paper in the right places, under 
the platen plate, will do the work. 

CORKING THE DIE-FORM 

Some pressmen use cubes of rubber, others use 
ordinary corks for corking a steel die cutting and 
creasing form. The corking is done so that the stock 
will be pushed off from the sharp rules easily. It is an 
exceedingly important part of the make-ready. The 
majority of pressmen seem to prefer corks instead of 
the rubber cubes. Anyway, the corks are very efficient 
for the work. The size of the corks used is about 
three-quarters of an inch in height. The size of the 
face, or top, of the corks doesn't matter much. 



Corks shown in use 



31 



although small corks, such as are often used for medi- 
cine bottles, produce good results. Large corks may 
be cut down to smaller sizes as needed. 

The corks are glued in rows to the wood fui'niture 
in the form, close to the steel cutting rules, and on 




Showing corks in place 

each side of them. If improved metal furniture has 
been placed against the cutting rules instead of wood, 
longer corks are used, the ends inserted in the open- 
ings in the lead furniture. After the form has been 
corked, pull an impression on a sheet of the regular 
box-board. If it fails to leave the form easily, it will 
be necessary to attach additional corks. Keep put- 



/ 



32 For cutting only 

ting corks on until the desired result is accomplished. 
To aid in pushing off large sheets, some pressmen 
make "springs" out of folding cardboard in the form 
of a large "X." These springs are glued to the wood 
furniture, somewhere near the center of the die. Other 
pressmen use slices of garden hose for the purpose. 

MAKING READY A STEEL CUTTING DIE 

This refers to forms made up of steel cutting rules 
— not those which also contain scoring rules. These 
forms, it will be remembered, are for cutting out odd 
shapes, advertising novelties, cardboard toys, fans, 
squares, oblongs, circles, etc. 

No "female die" is necessary for this class of cut- 
ting, as there is no creasing of the stock to be done. 
The counter-die consists of merely the bare steel 
platen plate the surface of which meets the sharp 
edges of the steel cutting rule. 

Pieces of manila paper are glued to the platen for 
holding the feeding guides. 

The "marking out" and "spotting up" are done in 
the same way as when making ready a cutting and 
creasing die. The make-ready sheet is placed in posi- 
tion underneath of the platen plate. Some patching 
up may be done in back of the form, using small pieces 
of heavy manila paper. 



Using regular presses 33 

The die is corked after the manner of corking a 
cutting and creasing form. 

With the aid of a small triangle file several notches 
are made in face of the steel cutting rule. This is 
done so that the cut-out shape and the waste material 
will hold together while being lifted from the form, 
and out of the machine. 

MAKING READY STEEL-DIE FORMS OX REGULAR PLATEN 

PRESSES 

As previously mentioned, cutting and creasing of 
paper box forms, and cutting of various shapes of 
cardboard, advertising novelties, fans, etc., can be 
done on platen printing presses of the Hartford and 
Colt's Armory style. A steel or brass platen plate, 
one-eighth of an inch thick, is an essential. If the 
presses are not already equipped with the platen 
plates, it would be necessary to have special machine- 
work done before attaching a new plate. 

The make-ready of the die forms is done exactly the 
same as on a standard cutting and creasing press. It 
is necessary, of course, to have all inking rollers re- 
moved from a regular platen printing press before 
making ready the die. 

Small steel rule cutting dies, for little job orders, 
can be run on light platen presses, such as an eighth 



34 Cylinder press cutting 

Gordon for instance, without using a steel platen 
plate. In such cases, a sheet of galvanized iron, or a 
sheet of heavy tin, is used in lieu of a steel plate. The 
sheet of iron or tin is glued to the platen. Make-ready 
and corking are done in the usual manner. 

MAKING READY STEEL-DIE FORMS ON CYLINDER PRESSES 

In many of the larger paper box factories cylinder 
presses of the drum (single revolution) type are run- 
ning on cutting and creasing die forms. Some of 
these dies are very spacious, as many as a dozen com- 
plete paper boxes being cut out of a single sheet of 
board, simultaneously. In most cases these cylinder 
presses have been especially built for the work of the 
box-maker, A steel "blanket," one-eighth of an inch 
in thickness, has been covered over the drum cylinder, 
which has been raised higher than ordinarily to care 
for the extra "tympan." The construction is such 
that the pressman can lift up the steel blanket, when 
making ready, as he does regular paper tympan. 

The drum cylinder presses are also used in numer- 
ous plants for cutting out life-size figures from printed 
and lithographed cardboard, such as are extensively 
used for advertising signs, etc. Cardboard toys, such 
as large doll houses, novelties, and so forth, are among 
the many other things which are cut out. 



On rotary presses 35 

The inking apparatus is taken off entirely. The 
make-ready and the corking of the steel-die forms are 
done practically the same as on standard cutting ande 
creasing presses. Most of the patching up of weak 
rules is done under the steel blanket. 

It is possible to do cutting and creasing on regular 
cylinder presses by using a sheet of heavy gage tin or 
galvanized iron attached to the cylinder. It is not 
advisable to work extra large die forms on regular 
cylinder presses. 

PRINTING, CUTTING ANB CREASING ON SPECIAL ROTARY 

PRESSES 

Some of the well-known paper box manufacturers 
have special rotary presses on which printing, cut- 
ting and creasing can all be done with the same oper- 
ation. On these machines there are two cylinders — 
one for the printing impression, the other is for the 
cutting and creasing counter-die. As many as a dozen 
complete cartons can be printed, cut and creased on 
a single sheet of box-board. 

EMBOSSING, CUTTING AND CREASING ON STANDARD 
PLATEN PRESSES 

An embossing die can be worked along with a cut- 
ting and creasing die-form, on a standard platen 



36 Adding an embossing form 

press of the Hartford type, or on a standard cutting 
and creasing press. We are speaking of colorless em- 
bossing such as is often noted on box lids of hat boxes, 
suit boxes, etc. The monogram, or the name and ad- 
dress of the advertiser is deeply embossed in the stock 
without first having the subject printed with ink. 

A solid brass embossing die produces the best re- 
sults. It is locked up with the cutting and creasing 
die. After the counter-die has been made for the cut- 
ting and creasing rules, an additional counter-die is 
constructed for the embossing die. Patented emboss- 
ing composition can be used, or a good reverse die 
can be made of "Alabastine" (finely sifted), sodium 
silicate, and a small portion of fish-glue. Mix to the 
consistency of putty. Apply to the straw-board on 
the platen plate; spread a sheet of french-folio over 
the composition, and pull an impression (slowly). 
With a knife cut away all of the composition which 
has been squeezed to the outer edges of the counter- 
die. Take a dozen or so' impressions until the detail 
of the male die has been worked up in sharp relief. 
The counter-die should then stand until it is dry and 
hard. 

Embossing, cutting and creasing can also be done 
simultaneously on cylinder presses. The counter-die 
is made the same as on the platen presses. 



Care in operation 37 



FEEDING 



On both platen and cylinder presses the feeding of 
the ^tock is done in the same manner as when feeding 
sheets for regular printing. The speed of the ma- 
chines depends mainly upon the ability of the oper- 
ator, and the conditions of the stock. When the sheets 
of box-board or other material are "curled," it is a 
good plan to have the sheets bent backward at each 
corner so as to make the feeding easy. 

The stock should be piled up near the cutting and 
creasing presses so that it will not be necessary for 
the operators to waste steps in going after "lifts." 
Valuable time can be gained for the feeders if boys 
keep taking the sheets away from the presses as the 
work is completed. 

Although practically all cutting and creasing 
presses are now equipped with gear guards and platen 
guards, pressmen and feeders are warned to be care- 
ful — exceedingly careful — when Avorking on these 
machines. The writer knows of several cases where 
feeders have been maimed while working on cutting 
and creasing forms. 

Never reach in the press for a sheet of stock no 
matter what may happen to the sheet. Have all forms 
corked so that the sheets will leave the die readily. If 



38 Stripping the work 

the stock fails to hold together during the cutting 
operation, file a number of little notches in the steel 
cutting rule so that the sheets will not fall apart. All 
cutting and creasing work is more or less dangerous. 
At all times be careful! 



STRIPPING 



After the stock has been run through the press, it 
is carried to the finishing department where the strip- 
ping is done. Girls and boys take the sheets — about 
fifty at a time — and pull the waste material from 
them. A mallet is useful in this work. Intricate cut- 
outs of advertising novelties, box-corners, etc., are 
"hammered out" with the mallet. A sharp blow with 
the mallet while the pile of stock is extending over a 
large wooden box, and all of the waste pieces fall out. 

Rough edges of fans, novelties, etc., are smoothed 
with a few brisk rubbings of emery paper. 



ADDITIONAL SUGGESTIONS 



In a regular cutting and creasing department there 
should be a number of extra chases, also a number of 
extra steel platen plates. Through having these ad- 
ditional, intricate die forms, and counter-dies, for 
repeat orders, can be kept standing intact. For ex- 
ample, a steel platen plate containing an important 



Sharpen with emery 39 

counter-die is removed from the press after the run 
has been finished, and the plate and counter are put 
away for future service. The steel die is kept locked 
up in the chase. Later on the form and platen plate 
are put on press again, and there' is no make-ready 
necessary for the repeat order. 

A steel platen plate is better than one made of 
brass. When the steel plate becomes marked with 
lines from the steel cutting rules, its usefulness is not 
affected in the least. Some pressmen smooth the sur- 
face of roughened steel platen plate with fine emery 
cloth, but this is not essential. 

When steel cutting rules in a die become somewhat 
dull, the edges may be sharpened with emery cloth. 
Fold the emery cloth, put a few drops of machine oil 
on it, and rub the cloth along both sides of the cut- 
ting rule. 

When an unusually large number of corks have 
been glued to an intricate die-form, it may be neces- 
sary to increase the entire impression of the press. 
Raise the slides holding the throw-off bar one notch, 
or place a few sheets of heavy manila paper in back 
of the form. 

Save corks and pieces of steel rule which are in fair 
condition when breaking up "dead" forms. This ma- 
terial can be used again for other forms. 



40 Practical suggestions 

Never build a die with combinations of worn rule 
and new rule. Use all new rule or all worn rule. 

Keep all tools in the best of condition, and have 
one particular place for all tools. 

Have a box of corks, in assorted sizes, near each 
press, ready for instant use as additional corking is 
required for troublesome forms. 

Make it a practice to oil the press twice every day, 
in the morning before starting work, and immediately 
after lunch-time. 

Keep the presses clean. 



36 91 





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HECKMAN 

BINDERY INC. 




DEC 90 

N. MANCHESTER, 
INDIANA 46962 







